Hello Fellow
Allotmenteers & Friends,
It's a
short newsletter at the end of this month I'm afraid - March is
a particularly busy month and it's getting increasingly
difficult to get a spare five minutes here or there for
newsletter writing! If you're not particularly busy on your
allotment and would like to provide a helping hand with a
contribution or two - then feel free! Next month is going to be
even more hectic - so if April gets skipped, you'll know why!
HE'S NOT
"A RIGHT CHARLIE!" - CHARLES IS RIGHT (on this
one at least!) |
Prince
Charles says organic allotments can save the
environment

By Louise Gray, Environment
Correspondent
7:00AM GMT 24 Feb 2011
Gardeners
are the key to saving the environment, according to
the Prince of Wales, who has called on people to “be
the change they want to see” by growing organic
fruit and vegetables wherever they can, from
allotments to containers on balconies.
Prince Charles examines a
hallmark he hammered in to a piece of silver as
Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall looks on during a visit
to Goldsmiths Hall Photo:
GETTY
|
The heir to the
throne, who gardens 13 acres at his home Highgrove,
insisted even a tiny patch of land can make a
difference to the environment by sucking up carbon,
providing food and creating habitat for birds and
butterflies.
One of the
country’s largest landowners said allotments are
also important for community cohesion and teaching
children about where food comes from.
"It is so
encouraging to see the number of people starting to
grow their own food, whether in their gardens,
allotments or containers,” he said.
"Although this
will not resolve the problem of food security, it
does start the process of individuals thinking
locally and encouraging local social networks, which
are important for community cohesion." In a very
personal account of his relationship with gardening,
the Prince revealed that when he first decided to go
organic people questioned “whether I was in my right
mind or not”. |
|
SEED
POTATOES - A "Thank You" Gesture.
I
recently received an e-mail from Iain Harbour from
JBA Seed Potatoes up in Arran, Dumfries & Galloway.
As most of you will have noticed, JBA is one of our
web-site sponsors. Apparently they've had quite a
bit of custom from traffic that's been relayed from
the AAA web-site to their site. As a thank you
gesture he's given me a 10% discount code that I can
share with you as members of the AAA web-site who
receive this newsletter.
Here is a copy
of what he sent me:
|
Dear Gwilym (Aberaeron Allotment
Association)
As a valued customer and an
on-line website associate we are
giving you a 10% discount
code.
I have set up a voucher with up
to 10000 uses just for your members.
The voucher code is:
AAASPRING2011
you and your
members will get 10% off until 12
noon on Saturday 9th April
If the newsletter goes out on
Tuesday/wednesday that should give
at least 10 days for the newsletter
readers.
That
should do the job for you. I will
let you know if anyone uses it.
You can use
this voucher on all JBA products
apart from delivery costs.
You will
be pleased to know that this has
been our busiest year online and
that your support has helped us to
be recognised as the No.1 online
seed potato supplier in the UK.
We have
restocked the shop for you, so go
on, treat yourself to a few extra
potatoes or potato accessories that
you may find of use.
This voucher
can only been redeemed online.
Enjoy!
All the best
Iain
PS - Ready to Eat
Potatoes
Visit the new
'Ready
to Eat Potatoes' section on our
website where you can get eating
potatoes direct to your door from
our farm stores.
All of our
stock was harvested last year and
stored in the ideal conditions. We
do not use any chemicals on the
potatoes and they are stored in
temperature controlled sheds. The
potatoes are not washed so they have
a much longer storage life if you
keep them in a cool dark place in
your house that is frost free.
Potato Growing Questions Answered
Hopefully the weather will pick
up soon and you will be able to
start work on your ground. You may
already have chitted your potatoes
in advance and are desperate to
plant them but just be aware that
frosts could very easily nip the
fresh leaf growth of the plants and
set your potatoes back.
If you want any help then go to
my new potato forum where you can
ask all the questions that you need
answered. This forum is becoming
more and more popular with new
members joining every day.
Simply go to
www.growingpotatoes.co.uk and
sign up and once you receive an
email from us you can click it to
activate your account. Please check
your spam box if an email does not
arrive.
JBA Seed Potatoes |
|
So if
any of you are last minute shoppers for some seed
potatoes, or any other potato planting accessories
then get cracking - the offer ends on the 9th of
next month. For those of you who may have already
ordered from JBA - SORRY - I didn't know that this
was in the pipeline, otherwise I'd have told you to
hold fire.
To use the
redemption code to get your 10% discount you need to
access JBA via the AAA web-site. Just click
HERE if
you want to do that now.
PLANTING YOUR
SEED POTATOES
For those of you
who are now busily preparing to plant your seed
potatoes, here's a little guide for you - that may
come in useful. The "old hands" will obviously be
well aware of this - so don't think that Grandmother
is being taught to suck eggs here!
You should
use the following distances for your trenches
(/ridges):
First
Earlies should be planted 10 - 12inches apart
along your trenches; the space between trenches
should be around 24 inches.
Second
Earlies and Maincrops should be planted 15 inches
apart with a space of 28 inches between the
trenches.
Use the soil
that you have already taken out of the trench and
carefully scatter it on top of the potatoes until
the trench is once again flat.
Once the plants
start to grow through, you should earth them up.
Earthing up is best done with a garden hoe: the aim
is to form a peaked ridge with the loose soil at the
edge of the trench to prevent your potatoes turning
green which would make them inedible. This may be
required two or three times in a season.
If you have
problems with slugs, now is the time add slug
pellets to the trench (following the recommended
dosage). In July/August, you can use Nemaslug, which
are nematodes designed to attack slugs and stop the
problem. |
FAVOURITE
QUESTIONS
When I'm
down on my plot, probably the most common questions I get asked
by my fellow allotmenteers are:
-
"how far apart should
I sow . . . ?"
-
"how far apart should
my rows be for . . . ?"
-
"how deep should I
plant . . . ?"
I don't
mind in the least answering these questions, but seeing as so
many seem unable to memorise - but need - this information
(twelve months gives you lots of time to forget things), I've
compiled a "Veg. Sowing/ Planting Guide" for you. I hope it will
be helpful - perhaps you could copy and print it (for pinning to
the back of your shed door - if you have one, or if you intend
to build one sometime)! Here it is:
My
Recommended Vegetable Seed Sowing/Planting Guide
Sorry it's in
"old currency" - it's my age - imperial measurements
are what come naturally to me. You younger (mono
metric) gardeners, click
HERE for an on-line conversion calculator! |
Crop
|
Time to
Plant Outdoors |
Plant Distance |
Seeds Required |
Ready to
Use
(After
approx.) |
Between Rows |
In the Row |
Row |
Asparagus
|
Mar-Apr
|
5-6'
|
18-24"
|
½ oz/20'
|
2nd Spring
|
Beans, Bush |
May and June |
2-3' |
3-4" |
6 oz/50' |
50-70 days |
Beans, Runner
|
May and June
|
18" |
9" |
6 oz/45 hills
|
70-90 days
|
Beans, Lima |
May-June |
2-4' |
6-8" |
6 oz/30 hills |
90-130 days |
Beets, Table
|
Mar-July
|
14-20"
|
2-4"
|
½ oz/50'
|
45-60 days
|
Broccoli |
Mar-Aug |
24-30" |
14-18" |
½ oz/750 plants |
70-120 days |
Brussel Sprouts
|
Apr-June
|
30-36"
|
18-24"
|
½ oz/1000 plants
|
90-120 days
|
Cabbage, Early |
Feb-Apr |
30-36" |
16-24" |
½ oz/1000 plants |
90-110 days |
Cabbage, Late
|
May and June
|
36-42"
|
24-30"
|
½ oz/1000 plants
|
110-120 days
|
Carrots |
Mar-July |
12-24" |
2-3" |
½ oz/100' |
65-90 days |
Cauliflower
|
Mar-June
|
3-4'
|
24-30"
|
½ oz/750 plants
|
60-80 days
|
Celery |
April-July |
18-36" |
6-10" |
½ oz/4000 plants |
120-150 days |
Chicory
|
Mar-May, Sept
|
16-20"
|
6-8"
|
½ oz/100'
|
90-120 days
|
Chives |
April and May |
12-18" |
4-6" |
½ oz/100' |
125-150 days |
Sweet Corn
|
May-June
|
3' |
6" |
4 oz/100'
|
60-100 days
|
Cress |
Mar-May, Sept |
12-18" |
4-6" |
½ oz/125' |
45-60 days |
Cucumber
|
May-July
|
4-6'
|
10-12"
|
½ oz/25 hills
|
50-75 days
|
Egg Plant |
May |
24-30" |
18-24" |
½ oz/750 plants |
80-100 days |
Endive
|
May and June
|
18-20"
|
10-12"
|
½ oz/150'
|
90-100 days
|
Herbs, Annual |
March and April |
20-24" |
10-12" |
½ oz/100-300' |
125-150 days |
Herbs, Perennial
|
April-June
|
20-24"
|
10-12"
|
½ oz/100-300'
|
Next Season
|
Kale |
Mar and April, Aug |
18-24" |
12-18" |
½ oz/1000 plants |
55-60 days |
Kohl Rabi
|
March-May
|
16-24"
|
6-8"
|
½ oz/150'
|
50-70 days
|
Leek |
May-June |
14-20" |
4-6" |
½ oz/75' |
120-150 days |
Lettuce, Leaf
|
March-Sept
|
12-18"
|
4-6"
|
½ oz/100'
|
40-70 days
|
Lettuce, Head |
Mar-Aug |
12-16" |
12-14" |
½ oz/1500 plants |
70-90 days |
Muskmelon
|
May-June
|
6-8'
|
4-6'
|
½ oz/20 hills
|
90-150 days
|
Watermelon |
May and June |
8-12' |
6-10' |
½ oz/12 hills |
85-120 days |
Mustard
|
Mar-May, Sept
|
12-18"
|
2-3"
|
½ oz/300'
|
40-70 days
|
Okra |
April and May |
2½-3' |
18-24" |
½ oz/125 plants |
50-70 days |
Onion, Seed
|
April and May
|
12-18"
|
2-4"
|
½ oz/100'
|
90-120 days
|
Onion, Sets |
Oct-May |
12-18" |
2-3" |
1#/50' |
50-70 days |
Parsley
|
Mar-May, Sept
|
18-24"
|
12-16"
|
½ oz/125'
|
65-90 days
|
Parsnip |
April-June |
15-20" |
2-4" |
½ oz/150' |
95-110 days |
Peas, Dwarf
|
Mar-June, Sept
|
18-24"
|
2-3"
|
6 oz/50'
|
60-75 days
|
Peas, Tall
|
Mar-June, Sept
|
3' |
2-3"
|
6 oz/50'
|
70-90 days
|
Pepper |
May and June |
18-24" |
14-16" |
½ oz/750 plants |
75-85 days |
Potatoes
|
|
24-36"
|
14-18"
|
|
|
1st
Early |
March - April |
24" |
10 - 12" |
|
90 days |
2nd
Early & Main Crop |
April - June |
28 - 30" |
15" |
|
150 days |
Pumpkin
|
May-July
|
8-12'
|
6-8'
|
½ oz/15 hills
|
90-120 days
|
Radish |
March, Sept |
12-18" |
1-2" |
½ oz/50' |
20-75 days |
Rhubarb
|
March-June
|
30-36"
|
16-24"
|
½ oz/125'
|
3rd year
|
Rutabaga |
May and June |
18-24" |
6-8" |
½ oz/200' |
90-120 days |
Salsify
|
March-May
|
18-24"
|
2-4"
|
½ oz/60'
|
120-150 days
|
Spinach |
Mar-May, Sept |
12-18" |
3-6" |
½ oz/50' |
45-60 days |
Squash, Bush
|
May-June
|
5' |
5' |
½ oz/15 hills
|
55-70 days
|
Squash, Winter |
May-July |
10-12' |
8-10' |
½ oz/7 hills |
90-125 days |
Swiss Chard
|
Mar-July
|
12-18"
|
4-8"
|
½ oz/75'
|
45-60 days
|
Tomato |
May-June |
3-4' |
2-3' |
½ oz/1500' |
70-100 days |
Turnip
|
Mar-Aug
|
12-15"
|
3-4"
|
½ oz/200'
|
45-90 days
|
Crop
|
Time to
Plant Outdoors |
Plant Distance |
Seeds Required |
Ready to
Use |
Between Rows |
In the Row |
Row |
We also
have a "Planting Guide" on our web-site. Look for this button on
our Home page (or click on it now) :

When I
have a little more time I'll explain to you how gardeners - in
time honoured fashion - use various parts of their bodies to
quickly measure things (within quite close approximations &
certainly accurately enough for what you need on your allotment
plot) - assuming you haven't got a tape or a gauging rod handy.
A little
something for you to look forward to in a future newsletter - no
time this month I'm afraid. What's making it even more of a rush
for me is that I'm building myself a polytunnel (at the wrong
time I may add - it should have been done months ago, but the
winter weather &
periods
of being unwell put pay to that). Consequently it's now clashing
with soil preparation and sowing times! Ah well - one of these
days I'll be able to hit the ground running in spring - instead
of trying to multi-task! You all know how poor we the
testosterone-laden of the species are at multi-tasking
(as I'm regularly reminded) ! |
MEETINGS
We've had
not one but TWO Extraordinary General Meetings (EGMs) since the
last Newsletter! Most organisations like ours have an EGM when
an urgent specific subject arises or there's a need to resolve
an emergency - between scheduled OGMs (Ordinary General
meetings).
Normally
EGMs are either called by the committee of an organisation when
there's an urgent need for all members to get together, or a
meeting is triggered when a majority (usually 75% or more) of
the membership requests one for a specific reason, it's normally
a rare occurrence.
The AAA,
being a little different, requested a meeting to reaffirm Cause
7 in it's current Rules of Association, another EGM was
then arranged to sort out our Tenancy Agreement between the
various Plot-holders and the Association - that turned into a
ratification meeting to accept the new agreement - and NOW we
have yet another meeting to distribute the new Tenancy
Agreements to the Plot-holders, issue invoices for annual
membership fees, rents and last season's water usage. Quite an
exhaustive period of meetings! Most organisations like ours have
regular OGMs (usually once a quarter), an Annual General
Meetings (AGM) once a year and any EGMs are usually far and few
between. Perhaps a bit of clarity in this department will
prevail when the first draft of our Constitution is circulated.
That is another job that's eating into my precious time at
present.
Phillip
our Secretary will contact you shortly with the date, venue and
time of our next meeting. It is IMPERATIVE that ALL members
attend because the new Tenancy Agreements and invoices will be
issued in this one. Anyone failing to turn up will have to
collect their Tenancy Agreement from our secretary and will have
to separately settle their dues with Anne our Treasurer. This
will obviously make things a bit more awkward, so it's best if
we get it over with in one go when we next meet. That's why it's
in everyone's interest to attend - if at all possible.
DID
YOU KNOW?
The
Welsh name for Tomato is "Afal Cariad" this is identical to the
French name for the same fruit - Pomme d'Amour (French for "love
apple"). What on earth is the connection?
Researchers determined that Aztecs developed the tomato, as we
know it. When the first conquistadors arrived in Mexico, the red
fruit attracted their attention and intrigued their taste buds.
In the 1600’s, they shipped some to Europe, but at first tomato
failed to enthuse the palates of Europeans. Then in a genial
strike some “marketing guru” decided to label tomato as an
aphrodisiac and named it "poma amoris", the French in turn
called it "pomme d’amour". Of course it took off.
By
contrast, American colonists thought tomatoes to be poisonous
because of the plant’s relation to the deadly nightshade family!
In fact it's leaves are slightly poisonous as are the
leaves of it's cousins the potato and the dahlia (the tuber of
the dahlia is also poisonous as is the greened tubers of
potatoes). Like many other plants in the nightshade family,
tomato leaves and stems contain atropine and other tropane
alkaloids that can be quite toxic if ingested. The ripe fruit
does not contain these compounds. Tomato leaves in the
form of a tea have been linked to at least one death, but the
levels of tomatine are generally too small to be dangerous
"Not a
lot of people know that" !
|
CONTRIBUTING
Well
that's it for this edition.
If any of
you would like to contribute to our newsletter, either with a
story, information on plants/ pests & diseases, news, tips or
just a recipe. Then please contact me at any time. All relevant
material received will be published.
Or you
can click on this e-mail address to open a Form-Mail page that
links to my personal e-mail account.

Keep up
the hard slog!
Keep
healthy, happy & friendly doing so!
Kind
Regards,
G
Gwilym
Aberaeron Allotment
Association Chair
AAA and Gardeners Chat-Shed
Webmaster
 |
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accepted by Aberaeron
Allotment Association
for any loss or damage
from the receipt or use
thereof. |
QUOTE:
Gardening is a labour
full of tranquility and
satisfaction; natural
and instructive, and as
such contributes to the
most serious
contemplation,
experience, health and
longevity. - John
Evelyn
 |
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